I used to be one of many first to strive Gordon’s inaugural Hell’s Kitchen venue within the UK.
I ate at Gordon Ramsay’s new restaurant (Picture: Jess Phillips)
Earlier than this yr, the one technique to expertise celeb chef Gordon Ramsay’s iconic Hell’s Kitchen chain was by travelling abroad – both to Ibiza or to america. Now, nonetheless, Brits can get a style of that exact same luxurious, with the opening of Chef Ramsay’s first London Hell’s Kitchen situated on the Cumberland Lodge in Marble Arch.
Luxurious actually is the operative phrase right here. A 1.2kg tomahawk steak – to share – will set you again a whopping £350, whereas a barely cheaper 500g châteaubriand prices £120. The well-known beef wellington prices £65, whereas the lobster risotto is available in at a barely extra modest £55.
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However luxurious isn’t solely mirrored within the price ticket. It’s apparent as quickly as you step by way of the doorways, previous the red-lit Hell’s Kitchen signal with its well-known trident. I step into the dimly lit foyer able to be impressed – and impressed I’m. I’m instantly greeted by Gordon himself – sadly not within the flesh, however on a video display screen up on the wall.
The cheeky (however sadly pre-recorded) model of Gordon greets diners with an invite to snap a selfie. Wearing his chef whites, all his trademark allure is there – and it’s the proper picture alternative earlier than going into the restaurant correct.
‘Welcome to Hell’ (Picture: Jess Phillips)
Issues undoubtedly don’t get much less intense inside. Instantly my eyes flash to the literal fires of hell surrounding among the diners, and the brightly lit chef’s desk on the rear of the room, the place I can hear a refrain of “Sure, chef!”s. As supervisor Santino Cicciari jokes as we take our seats: “Welcome to Hell.”
We quiet down with some drinks – a glass of champagne every that goes down like a allure – whereas we ponder starters. There’s rather a lot to select from; the Hell’s Kitchen menu boasts a uncooked/chilled part together with caviar (at a whopping £95 for 30g), shrimp cocktail (£16) and oysters (£36 for six). Soups and salads are additionally on provide, however we plump for the primary starter menu – deciding to share the harissa flatbread, seared scallops and wagyu meatballs.
The scallops, Santino tells us, are a Hell’s Kitchen staple. Served with a pea purée and braised bacon, in rooster jus, they actually soften within the mouth. Neglect any robust scallops you’ve tried earlier than – Gordon’s will blow your thoughts, I assure it. Priced at £24, they arrive served in a trio, improved tenfold by the unimaginable garnish.
The flatbread, too, deserves reward. It’s coated in garlic harissa butter and chives, puffed to perfection, and I can’t assist the little wiggle of enjoyment that escapes me on the first chew.
The flatbread won’t appear to be a lot, nevertheless it’s melt-in-the-mouth scrumptious (Picture: Jess Phillips)
The seared scallops are the standout of your complete meal (Picture: Jess Phillips)
Nevertheless, the meatballs weren’t fairly so spectacular. Priced at £17, they style just about like meatballs I’ve tried at chain eating places like Bella Italia, regardless of the wagyu beef and slow-roasted tomato sauce. They arrive served with polenta croutons, parmesan and basil, however there nonetheless isn’t sufficient there to be thrilling, sadly. It’s simply meatballs in tomato sauce.
The mains are what I’m actually wanting ahead to, although. We are able to’t depart with out attempting Gordon’s iconic beef wellington. One in all his most well-known dishes, Santino says it’s an absolute should.
Confession time – prior to now, I’ve by no means really tried beef wellington earlier than. I had a hazy concept of what it might be like based mostly on pictures, however when it’s introduced to me with a swirl of creamy potato purée, glazed root greens and soaked in a pink wine demi-glace, I do not know what my tastebuds are in for.
The meat is served medium uncommon in a fragile pastry. It provides off a comfy aura – like sitting by the hearth in a rustic pub on an autumn day. However nothing concerning the dish is just ‘cosy’ – it’s elevated means past that. The cherubs are singing, the harps are out – the meat is formally scrumptious.
The meat wellington is a staple of Gordon’s eating places (Picture: Jess Phillips)
The restaurant is steeped in luxurious (Picture: Jess Phillips)
As somebody who tends to draw back from very pink meat, I worry I’ve found a brand new means of consuming and shall not be ordering beef or steak any extra effectively achieved sooner or later. Gordon has satisfied me; I’m a modified lady.
Now for the lobster risotto, one other dish we merely can’t depart with out attempting. The lobster itself is scrumptious – tender and flavourful in all the correct locations – however the rice is definitely a bit bit chewy and tough to choke down. My good friend did take pleasure in it, nonetheless, so this one may simply be on me – however I’ve undoubtedly had fluffier risotto previously and for a lot much less.
For sides, we go for a range to share – the parmesan fries (my private favorite), baked macaroni and cheese with crispy prosciutto in a smoked gouda sauce, and the roasted summer time squash in balsamic discount. Although the fries are among the most well-seasoned potatoes ever to have handed my lips, the glaze on the squash is simply this facet of overpowering, and the mac and cheese doesn’t stand out from the group.
All through all of it, our server Barsha is attentive – ensuring we now have sufficient drinks and checking in concerning the meals, however by no means hovering. As we sip our champagne, my eyes wander over to the cooks working within the kitchen of their orderly row. It’s simple to image them on digicam for considered one of Gordon’s TV exhibits, and I can see the focus on their faces as they garnish and simmer and sprinkle.
Do not depart with out attempting the sticky toffee pudding (Picture: Jess Phillips)
The chocolate tart can be a standout (Picture: Jess Phillips)
Dessert time is upon us, and we can’t determine what to go for. We find yourself with three totally different desserts to share – the chocolate tart, served with espresso ganache and whipped white chocolate; the apple butterscotch cheesecake with a spiced apple compote, candied pecans and salted hazelnuts; and the sticky toffee pudding with toffee sauce and dulce de leche ice cream.
Maybe unsurprisingly, the sticky toffee pudding is the true standout. It’s divine. It’s fluffy, it’s completely sauced, it melts within the mouth. I additionally actually benefit from the chocolate tart, which comes with cocoa nib sable and salt on prime to provide it a sweet-salty tang. The cheesecake is, once more, simply okay, however that truth is greater than made up for within the different two (heavenly) desserts.
Although some potential diners is likely to be bowled over by the extravagant price ticket, Hell’s Kitchen is the proper place for a deal with. Round us are {couples} celebrating anniversaries and birthdays and every little thing in between. Removed from being an intimidating ambiance, the restaurant really feels extremely welcoming – regardless of the hellfire that catches your eye on the way in which in.
Lunch can be an possibility on the extra inexpensive facet, and that’s the place you’ll be able to catch the notorious Fool Sandwich – a brief rib served with spiced tomato chutney, maitake mushroom and Swiss cheese.
You may inform Chef Ramsay has put his private touches all over. You may actually think about him striding concerning the cooks – although maybe being a bit bit gentler than he’s on tv.
The one factor I doubt I’ll ever recover from, nonetheless, out of this complete expertise, is how stunning scallops could be after they’re cooked excellent. As a seafood fan most of my life, I’ve by no means tasted something fairly like Gordon’s specialty starter, and it’s one thing I’ll be dreaming about for a very long time to return.
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